A 


CONCISE  ACCOUNT 


OF  THE  MODE  OF 


INSTRUCTING  IN  NEEDLE- WORK, 


AS  PRACTISED 


IN  THE 


FEMALE  MODEL  SCHOOL, 


KILDARE  PLACE, 

4 


JSuiltn* 


PRINTED  BY  THOMAS  L WHITE,  J4<),  ABBEY  STREET. 


MDCCCXXXIII. 


L 

D Sc 


CONTENTS. 


Introductory  Observations . 1 

"First  CLAss^Paper 4 

«v,Calico 5 

FIRST  Second  CLAss^Sewing 5 

nTTrTomxT  ^ Third  CLAss~Seaming — Hem  Seam 6 

DIVISION.  1 „R„n  and  fell  Seam 6 

I ^.Sew  and  fell  Seam 7 

L Fourth  CLAss^Stitching 7 

<;pm\rn  f Fifth  Class~ Overcasting  Button-holes 8 

\SlXTH  Class^  Gathering 9 

DIVISION,  j Seventh  CLAss^Trimming  and  Tucking 10 

(.Eighth  CLAss^Marking 11 


S'  THIRD 
DIVISION. 

r 


Ninth 


Tenth 

Eleventh 


Twelfth 


CLAss~Mending — Darning 12 

Darn  resembling  Stocking- web ... . 14 

^Grafting 14 

^.Repairing  dropped  stitches 15 

^.Patching 15 

^Fine-drawing 16 

CLAss«.Making  Flannel  Articles,  Shirts, 

Frocks,  and  other  Clothing 16 

CLASs^Knitting 20 

~,To  knit  a French  Heel.. 20 

^,To  knit  Shawls 20 

^Double  Knitting 21 

^.Elastic  Knitting 21 

^.Insertion  or  Fringe  Knitting 21 

Scotch  Knitting 22 

CLAss~Platting,  Rustic 22 

^Platting,  Dunstable 23 

^Platting,  Leghorn 23 


! Thirteenth Class~Mus1hi  Work 23 

FouRTEENTHCLAssu.Lace  Work 23 

Fifteenth  CLAss~Worsted  Work 23 

Sixteenth  CLAss~Thread  Work 23 


Directions  for  Cutting  out  Men’s  Shirts 24 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Plain  Shirts  of  different  sizes 26 

Directions  for  Cutting  out  Shifts 27 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Shifts  of  different  sizes 28 

Directions  for  Cutting  out  Frocks  and  for  making  Tucks 29 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Frocks  of  different  sizes 30 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Flannel  Petticoats  of  different  sizes 31 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Boys’  Bibs,  with  sleeves,  of  different  sizes 32 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Girls’  Bibs  of  different  sizes 33 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Boys’  Caps  of  different  sizes 34 

Scale  for  Cutting  out  Caps,  adapted  for  either  Girls  or  Boys,  of  different  sizes  35 

Directions  for  Knitting  Stockings 36 

Scale  of  sizes  for  Stockings 38 

Rules  to  be  observed  by  the  Scholars 39 


M 


« 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  many  advantages  derived  to  Females  from  imparting  to 
them  at  an  early  age  a competent  knowledge  of  needle-work? 
cutting  out,  and  making  articles  of  apparel,  are  so  obvious, 
and  so  generally  admitted,  that  it  would  be  superfluous  to  insist 
upon  them  ; every  means,  therefore,  which  can  tend  to  facilitate 
the  progress  of  learners,  or  render  the  business  of  instruction 
more  simple  and  less  laborious  to  Teachers,  may  be  considered  as 
deserving  of  attention.  To  promote  these  important  objects  in 
Schools,  one  of  the  best  means  will  be  found  to  consist  in  a 
regular  classification  of  the  pupils  according  to  their  proficiency, 
advancing  them  successively,  from  class  to  class,  only  upon  their 
executing  an  approved  specimen  of  the  work  of  each.  Class  lists 
of  needle-work  should  be  kept,  and  the  name  and  progress  of  each 
child  marked  on  them  : by  this  arrangement,  it  is  certain  that  every 
child  who  continues  to  attend  the  School  must  eventually  become 
acquainted  with  all  the  different  kinds  of  work  taught,  besides  that 
the  execution  of  each  peculiar  kind  must  be  brought  as  nearly  as 
possible  to  perfection,  as  advancement  is  made  to  depend  upon  that 
particular.  By  neglecting  System  in  the  teaching  of  needle-w  ork, 
a possibility  arises  of  some  things  being  overlooked,  and  a danger 
that  children  will  contrive  to  practise  such  works  only  as  they  are 
most  capable  of  performing  well,  to  the  neglect  of  making  new 
acquisitions, — as,  even  among  grown  persons,  many  may  be  found, 
who,  from  a certain  indolence  or  carelessness  of  disposition,  are 
content  to  remain  ignorant  of  several  things,  of  which  a very  trifling 
exertion  would  have  put  them  in  possession. 

In  the  Female  Model  School,  Kildare  Place,  Dublin,  the  needle- 
work is  arranged  into  four  divisions,  and  each  division  is  again 
subdivided  into  four  classes, — each  class  being  under  the  care  of 
a distinct  Monitress. 

4 

B 


2 


The  whole  of  the  classes  and  Monitresses  are  under  the  care  and 
superintendence  of  a General  Monitress  of  needle-work,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  cut  out  and  adjust,  according  to  prescribed  rules,  the 
various  materials  for  work  which  she  receives  from  the  Mistress, 
and  upon  which  the  scholars  are  to  practise. 

The  Class  Monitresses  are  each  provided  with  a basket,  in  which 
are  placed  the  materials  suited  to  the  kinds  of  work  taught  in  their 
respective  classes,  together  with  a pair  of  scissors,  a furnished 
needle-book,  thimbles,  and  coloured  cotton,  which,  as  it  renders 
the  stitches  more  conspicuous,  is  considered  best  for  learners — - 
also,  a model  of  the  work,  from  which  the  children  are  to  copy. 

The  contents  of  each  basket  are  taken  account  of,  by  the  Moni- 
tress General  of  work,  and  the  Class  Monitresses  are  responsible 
for  any  loss.  It  is  the  duty  of  the  Class  Monitresses  to  give  out 
those  materials  to  the  scholars,  and  to  communicate,  in  the  clear- 
est and  most  simple  manner,  all  the  information  of  which  they  are 
possessed.  They  should  instruct  them  in  the  best  mode  of  begin- 
ning, executing,  and  finishing  the  work,  which  they  should  con- 
stantly examine, — attend  to,  and  supply  their  wants, — shew  up 
such  specimens  as  they  judge  fit  for  removal, — and  try  to  promote 
their  advancement  by  every  means  in  their  power,  to  which  end 
ail  their  exertions  should  be  directed. 

They  should  preserve  silence,  order,  and  regularity  in  their 
classes,  report  idleness  or  any  other  impropriety,  but  should  never 
attempt  to  inflict  punishment  themselves.  They  should  be  per- 
fectly clean  and  neat  in  their  persons,  obliging  and  gentle  in  com- 
municating instruction,  and  should  try  to  improve  those  under  their 
care,  as  much  by  their  own  good  example  as  by  precept. 

The  first  qualifications  of  a good  Monitress  are  integrity 
and  uprightness  of  principle — where  these  are  truly  sincere,  the 
conduct  will  be  seldom  found  far  wrong.  Many  children  are  per- 
haps unconscious,  that,  when  they  are  lukewarm  and  indifferent 
in  the  discharge  of  their  business,  they  are  really  acting  dishonestly  ; 
but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  is  dishonest  to  undertake  any 
situation  where  trust  and  confidence  are  reposed  in  us,  unless  we 
be  determined  to  fulfil  the  duties  which  it  imposes  on  us  to  the 
very  best  of  our  ability. 

It  will  be  evident  also,  that  no  Girl  can  be  qualified  to  act  well 


s 


as  Monitress,  who  is  not  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  work  which 
she  undertakes  to  teach,  since  she  cannot  impart  that  which  she 
does  not  know,  nor  can  properly  instruct  others  in  matters  which 
she  does  not  sufficiently  understand  herself. 

To  encourage  deserving  Monitresses,  and  to  reward  them  for 
the  care  bestowed  upon  their  classes,  a certain  number  of  Merit 
Tickets  are  given  them,  but  if  it  appear  that  they  have  been 
negligent  in  the  discharge  of  their  duties — that  their  classes  have 
been  noisy  or  disorderly,  or  that  they  are  deficient  in  the  quantity 
of  materials  which  have  been  entrusted  to  their  care,  they  are 
deprived  by  fines  of  a proportion  of  the  Tickets  to  which  they 
would  otherwise  have  been  entitled.  The  tickets  are  paid  them 
at  the  close  of  each  week,  as  they  act  as  Monitresses  only  one 
week  at  a time,  by  which  means  they  are  enabled  to  pursue  their 
own  improvement  in  their  respective  classes. 

Every  new  Scholar  upon  being  admitted  is  tried  in  needle-work, 
and  classed  according  to  proficiency,  and  no  child  can  be  trans- 
ferred to  a higher  class  until  she  has  executed  a perfect  specimen 
of  the  work  of  the  class  to  which  she  belongs. 

No  child,  in  her  progress  through  any  particular  class,  can  be 
permitted  to  execute  any  work  carelessly,  which  she  had  learned 
to  do  perfectly  in  a preceding  one — for  example,  in  the  stitching 
class  a girl  must  sew  the  ends  of  the  wrists,  with  as  much  care  as 
she  used  when  trying  to  be  removed  for  sewing ; and  so  through 
each  class. 


4 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  NEEDLE- WORK. 

The  arrangement  of  the  Needle-work  into  four  divisions  has 
been  already  noticed : each  division  comprises  four  classes,  in 
which  the  pupils  are  placed  according  to  their  various  proficiency. 
THE  FIRST,  or  lowest  DIVISION,  includes  the  four  follow- 
ing classes,  viz. 

First  Class — Hemming,  Paper  and  Calico. 

Second  Class— Sewing,  Selvages  and  Edges. 

Third  Class — Seaming,  as  hem-seam,  run,  fell,  sew,  and 
fell  seams. 

Fourth  Class — Stitching  and  Knotting. 

FIRST  CLASS PAPER. 

Having  received  a needle,  thread,  and  thimble,  put  the  latter  on 
the  second  finger  of  the  right  hand.  Thread  the  needle ; when 
doing  so,  hold  it  in  the  lefty  and  the  thread  in  the  right  hand. 
Fold  down  the  hem  oncey  of  an  equal  width  to  the  end.  Then  a 
second  fold,  the  same  width  as  the  first.  Hold  the  needle  in  the 
right  hand,  the  work  on  the  first  finger  of  the  left.  Begin  by 
pointing  the  needle  from  the  chest,  so  that  the  end  of  the  thread 
will  be  next  you ; turn  this  under  the  hem.  As  you  go  on  hem- 
ming, point  the  needle  towards  the  chest.  See  Pattern  in  Speci- 
men Book,  No.  1. 

Observation. — Pieces  of  paper,  about  three  inches  square  are 
given  to  the  children  of  this  class,  which  they  are  instructed  to 
hem  as  above.  When  the  needle  can  be  managed  with  tolerable 
expertness,  the  hem  laid  down  straight,  and  the  stitches  set  in 
equally,  a child  may  be  transferred  to  the  second  division  of  the 
hemming  class,  the  only  object  in  the  use  of  paper,  being  the 
acquirement  of  the  first  principles  at  a trifling  expense.  Moni- 
tresses  should  be  very  particular,  however,  in  teaching  the  chil- 
dren to  hold  the  work  and  needle  properly  at  the  commencement, 
as  much  of  the  ease  of  their  future  progress  will  depend  on  their 
acquiring  proper  methods  in  the  beginning. 


CALICO. 


See  that  the  raw  edge  is  cut  even.  Fold  down  the  hem 
straight,  twice — the  second  fold,  the  same  width  as  the  first. — 
When  beginning,  point  the  needle  from,  the  chest,  turn  the  end 
of  the  thread  under  the  hem,  let  the  end  of  the  turn  be  neatly 
sewed  ; as  you  go  on  hemming,  point  the  needle  towards  the  chest, 
hold  the  work  firmly  on  the  first  finger  of  the  left  hand,  set  the 
stitches  in  short,  and  at  equal  distances — when  the  thread  is  nearly 
used,  cut  it,  turn  it  under  the  hem,  also  the  end  of  the  fresh 
thread.  When  hemming  square  pieces,  fold  them  like  a half 
handkerchief,  to  try  if  the  sides  be  of  an  equal  length,  and  lay 
the  hem  down,  first  on  one  sidey  then  on  the  opposite , next,  on 
the  endsy  by  which  mode  all  the  corners  will  be  turned  alike. — 
When  hemming  any  thing  bias , draw  the  hand  tightly . It  is  not 
necessary  to  hem  muslin  so  closely  as  cambric  or  linen  ; the  width 
of  the  hem  should  depend  somewhat  upon  the  texture  or  quality 
of  the  material,  in  general  it  may  be  allowed  to  consist  of  eight 
or  nine  threads.  See  specimen,  No.  2. 

Observation. — Pieces  of  white  and  printed  calico  are  given  to 
the  pupils  in  this  class,  to  be  hemmed  agreeably  to  the  foregoing 
rules,  and  two  inches  square  will  be  found  a convenient  size.  A 
yard  of  calico,  26  inches  wide,  may  be  cut  in  the  following  man- 
ner : divide  it  along  the  selvage  into  13  strips — cut  each  of  these 
strips  into  18  parts,  which  will  give  234  pieces,  2 inches  square. 
The  same  quantity  of  white  and  printed  calico  will  be  required. 
For  those  just  beginning,  long  strips  about  2 inches  wide  answer 
very  well,  as  they  afford  a good  deal  of  practice  in  the  stitch, 
without  encountering  corners,  which,  to  very  small  children,  are 
rather  difficult. — A yard  of  calico,  of  the  above  width,  will  make 
13  strips,  each  a yard  long,  which,  being  hemmed  at  both  sides, 
will  supply  20  yards  of  hemming. 

SECOND  CLASS — SEWING. 

Place  the  two  selvages,  or  edges,  together — either  tack  them 
slightly,  or  pin,  at  short  distances,  to  guard  against  puckering ; 
hold  the  work  firmly  and  straightly  between  the  thumb  and  first 
finger  of  the  left  hand,  support  it  between  the  second  and  third 


6 


fingers,  leave  a short  piece  of  the  end  of  the  thread,  sew  it  over 
with  the  first  few  stitches,  begin  to  sew  at  the  side , not  at  the 
point  of  the  finger — join  in  a fresh  thread  by  leaving  out  a short 
piece,  as  at  the  commencement,  which,  with  the  end  of  the  one 
you  have  been  using,  must  lie  on  the  top  of  the  seam,  and  be 
carefully  sewn  over,  to  prevent  ripping.  In  sewing  the  hems  of 
napkins,  or  table-cloths,  &c.  &c.  the  ends  of  thread  may  be  pressed 
into  the  seam,  as  they  will  not  then  appear  on  the  other  side. — 
The  needle  should  be  set  in  straightly  towards  the  chest,  not  slant- 
ing, and  the  stitches  just  deep  enough  to  keep  the  parts  firmly 
together. — See  specimen,  No.  3. 

Observation. — The  pieces  which  are  hemmed  by  the  scholars 
of  the  first  class,  are  given  to  those  in  the  second,  to  join  by 
sewing.  If  the  pieces  be  square,  they  are  taught  to  join  them  in 
diamond  pattern,  placing  two  coloured  ones  at  opposite  angles, 
and  two  white  in  a similar  manner,  always  beginning  to  sew  these 
at  the  middle  of  the  diamond.  Long  strips  are  sewn  alternate, 
white  and  coloured;  when  several  of  these  are  joined,  they  may 
be  cut  across  in  breadths  suitable  for  quilt  borders,  hemmed,  and 
again  sewn,  which  will  afford  an  additional  supply  of  work.  If 
the  first  class  should  not  supply  a sufficient  quantity  of  work,  as 
will  sometimes  be  the  case,  lay  down  hems  on  long  strips,  and 
have  them  sewn  in  the  same  manner  as  table  linen.  Monitresses 
should  take  care,  that  the  sewing  is  on  the  same  side  as  the  hem- 
ming ; and  that  the  ends  of  the  strips  are  put  exactly  together. — 
They  should  also  particularly  attend  to  the  manner  of  fastening 
in  the  thread,  both  at  commencing,  taking  a new  one,  and  fasten- 
ing off. 

THIRD  CLASS — SEAMING HEM  SEAM. 

The  edges  should  be  cut  quite  even — lay  once  down  the  raw 
edge  of  one  piece,  place  the  other  piece  upon  it,  a thread  or  two 
below  the  top,  fold  the  former  over  the  latter,  (about  the  width 
of  a hem,)  and  hem  them  firmly  together.  Take  care  to  keep 
the  edges  together , as  above  directed. 

RUN  AND  FELL  SEAM. 

Be  careful  that  the  edges  are  cut  even,  and  that  no  loose  ends 
of  thread  appear  on  them — lay  once  down  the  raw  edge  of  one 


7 


piece,  place  the  other  piece  upon  it,  a thread  or  two  below  the  top? 
run  them  together,  about  8 or  9 threads  below  the  turning,  take 
up  three  threads  on  the  needle,  leave  three  down ; when  joined 
in  this  manner  to  the  end,  lay  the  seam  down  very  smoothly,  and 
finish  by  hemming  it — take  care  that  no  channel  appear  on  the 
right  side.  In  seaming  shifts,  put  the  needle  back,  over  two 
threads  at  every  second  stitch,  to  give  additional  strength.  See 
specimen,  No.  4. 

Articles  which  have  two  selvages , should  be  run  only  6 or  7 
threads  from  the  edge,  and  in  the  manner  above  directed. 

SEW  AND  FELL  SEAM. 

Pare  the  edges,  lay  once  down  the  raw  edge  of  one  piece,  5 or  6 
threads  from  the  top,  fold  do  wn  the  edge  of  the  other  piece,  double 
the  width  of  the  former,  as  it  is  to  be  turned  back  to  form  the 
hem,  place  them  together,  the  turns  inside — sew  them  together 
neatly,  on  the  right  side  of  the  cloth,  make  the  seam  very  flat  and 
smooth,  and  hem  on  the  wrong  side. 

Observation. — Strips  of  white  and  coloured  calico,  four  inches 
long,  and  about  an  inch  wide,  are  given  to  the  pupils  in  this  class, 
which  they  are  taught  to  join  in  the  preceding  manner.  A yard 
of  calico,  26  inches  wide,  may  be  cut  into  26  strips,  each  of  which 
will  be  1 inch  wide,  and  a yard  long — cut  each  of  these  strips  into 
9 parts,  so  that  the  yard  will  give  234  pieces,  4 inches  long,  and 
1 inch  wide ; an  equal  proportion  of  white  and  printed  calico  will 
be  necessary.  It  may  be  remarked,  that  the  works  of  the  pre- 
ceding classes,  are  appropriated  to  making  patchwork  quilts,  which 
from  the  variety  they  generally  exhibit,  are  among  the  most  useful 
articles,  to  which  the  work  of  learners  can  be  applied.  The  three 
kinds  of  seaming  which  have  been  described,  form  the  work  of 
one  class. 


FOURTH  CLASS — STITCHING. 

Fold  the  wrist,  to  see  if  it  be  even  at  the  ends — lay  down  a 
fold  to  stitch  to,  18  or  20  threads  from  the  raw  edge,  count  12 
or  14  threads  from  the  doidde  edge,  and  draw  one — stitch  on  that 
line,  pass  the  needle  in  at  the  wrong  side,  between  the  double  of 
the  cloth,  bring  it  out  on  the  line  where  you  should  begin — the 


8 


:**’*!• 

stitch  is  formed  by  putting  the  needle  back  aver  two  threads,  and 
passing  it  under  two  before,  then  draw — when  the  thread  is  nearly 
used,  bring  the  needle  out  on  the  wrong  side,  fasten  it,  as  also  the 
fresh  thread,  and  pare  off  the  ends,  finish  one  row ; if  the  other 
side  of  the  wristband  have  a raw  edge,  turn  it  down , fold  the 
wrist  exactly  in  the  middle,  draw  a thread,  at  the  same  distance 
from  the  edge,  as  on  the  opposite  side — then  sew  both  ends,  keep- 
ing the  right  side  of  the  wristband  next  you,  and  stitch  the  top 
line.  The  collar  of  a shirt  should  be  prepared  and  finished  in  the 
same  manner.  See  specimen,  No.  5. 

Observation. — Pieces  of  white  calico,  3^  inches  in  length,  and 
inch  wide,  (when  doubled,)  are  given  to  the  children  of  this 
class,  who  are  taught  to  stitch  them  conformably  to  the  preceding 
rules.  To  afford  an  additional  supply  of  work,  threads  are  drawn 
at  equal  distances  through  the  entire  wristband,  which  is  then 
closely  stitched.  Knotting  is  taught  on  the  spaces  between  the 
rows. 

A yard  of  calico,  26  inches  wide,  will  make  100  wrists  of  the 
size  stated,  10  inches  in  the  length,  and  10  in  the  breadth,  (one 
inch  will  remain  in  the  latter,  which  may  be  cut  and  given  to  the 
third  class.) 

Before  a child  can  be  removed  from  this  class,  it  is  necessary 
that  she  execute  perfectly , a wrist  of  finer  material  than  the  com- 
mon calico  ; and,  as  an  encouragement,  she  may  be  permitted  to 
choose  the  colour  of  the  silk,  with  which  it  is  to  be  stitched. 


THE  SECOND  DIVISION 

Consists  of  the  four  following  Classes,  viz. 

Fifth  Class — Overcasting. 

Sixth  Class — Gathering,  and  stocking  in  Gathers. 

Seventh  Class — Trimming  and  Tucking. 

Eighth  Class — Marking,  on  Canvas,  Bolton,  and  Muslin. 

FIFTH  CLASS — OVERCASTING — BUTTON-HOLES. 
Button-holes  should  be  cut  of  such  a length  as  will  reach  across 
the  button  for  which  they  are  intended,  and  are  easily  cut,  either 
with  a chisel  or  scissors.  Cut  them  exactly  by  a thread,  place  the 


9 


work,  with  the  button-hole  lying  lengthways  along  the  first  finger 
of  the  left  hand ; begin  on  the  side  next  the  thumb,  and  work 
towards  the  point  of  the  finger ; put  the  needle  in  at  the  wrong 
side,  and  bring  it  out  four  or  five  threads  down  on  the  right — 
fasten  by  working  in  the  end  of  the  thread  with  the  first  few 
stitches.  If  a fresh  thread  be  required,  fasten  the  former  neatly 
on  the  wrong  side ; pass  the  needle  with  the  fresh  thread  between 
the  double  of  the  cloth,  and  through  the  last  loop  of  the  head  to 
connect  the  work,  keeping  the  end  of  the  thread  firmly  under  the 
thumb,  to  prevent  its  drawing,  and  go  on  as  before — the  head  is 
formed  by  passing  the  needle  through  the  loop  of  the  thread, 
before  it  is  drawn  close;  this  should  be  kept  quite  even,  one  thread 
only  should  lie  betiveen  the  stitches — take  care  not  to  turn  the 
corners  too  soon  ; bar  the  ends  to  strengthen  ; set  the  stitches  in 
exactly  by  a thread.  See  specimen,  No.  6. 

Observation. — Double  pieces  of  white  calico,  3 inches  in 
length,  and  2^  inches  in  width,  are  given  to  the  learners  in  this 
class,  who  are  instructed  to  fold  in  the  raw  edges,  tack  them 
slightly  together,  to  keep  them  even,  and  then  to  work  round  the 
entire  edge  in  button-hole  stitch,  to  which  this  plan  will  be  found 
to  accustom  them.  Button-holes  are  then  cut,  (only  as  they  are 
wanted,)  in  straight  lines,  through  the  entire,  and  about  half  an 
inch  distant  from  each  other;  these  are  wrought  agreeably  to  the 
above  directions.  A yard  of  calico,  26  inches  wide,  will  make  60 
pieces  of  the  size  mentioned,  12  in  the  length,  and  5 in  the 
breadth. 


SIXTH  CLASS GATHERING. 

Observe  that  the  part  you  are  going  to  gather  be  cut  quite  even; 
divide  it  into  halves  or  quarters,  make  a mark  at  each,  with  a bit 
of  thread;  lay  down  a fold  12  or  14  threads  from  the  edge;  crease 
it,  turn  it  back  as  at  first,  this  will  guide  you  to  run  straightly, 
as  drawing  a thread  is  improper — put  a knot  on  the  thread,  begin 
on  the  right  side,  take  up  two  threads  on  the  needle,  and  leave 
three  down,  (unless  the  article  be  very  full,  in  which  case,  more 
threads  may  be  missed.)  Do  about  a finger  length  before  draw- 
ing the  gathering  thread  ; when  all  is  gathered,  draw  the  fulness 


c 


10 


pretty  close,  secure  the  thread  by  twisting  it  round  a pin,  draw 
the  gathers  straight , trace  them  down  carefully,  one  at  a time,  so 
as  not  to  injure  the  material ; remove  the  pin,  and  open  the  gathers 
to  the  size  of  the  article  to  which  it  is  to  be  joined,  which  must 
be  also  halved,  quartered,  and  pinned  to  the  corresponding  parts 
of  the  gathered  piece — fasten  the  gathering  thread  by  twisting  it 
round  a pin  ; hold  the  work  with  the  gathers  lying  easily  across 
the  first  and  second  fingers  of  the  left-hand,  nearly  from  left  to 
right ; begin  at  the  side  farthest  from  you,  and  set  in  the  first 
stitches  very  neatly  and  firmly  ; point  the  needle  almost  along  the 
gathers,  take  up  but  one  gather  at  a time,  there  should  be  a stitch 
to  every  gather.  In  setting  on  the  wrong  side,  be  careful  not  to 
bring  it  down  lower  than  the  stitches  on  the  right  side.  See  spe- 
cimen, No.  7. 

Observation. — Pieces  of  calico,  3 inches  deep,  and  10^  wide, 
are  given  to  the  scholars  of  this  class.  If  the  sides  have  raw 
edges,  they  are  directed  to  hem  them  first , then  divide  equally, 
gather  and  stock  in  (as  already  described,)  to  the  wrists  which 
had  been  stitched  in  the  fourth  class.  Before  removal,  each  child 
is  supplied  with  muslin  both  for  wrists  and  stocks,  and  she  should 
be  capable  of  finishing  a very  neat  specimen,  to  entitle  her  to  be 
transferred  to  the  succeeding  class ; these  fine  patterns  are  always 
wrought  with  silk  of  different  colours.  A yard  of  calico  will 
supply  24  middle  pieces,  2 inches  in  the  breadth,  and  12  in  the 
length;  and  \ yard  of  muslin,  of  the  width  called  yard  and  quarter, 
will  make  6 middle  pieces,  2 inches  in  the  width,  and  3 in  the 
length.  The  strip  which  comes  off  the  breadth  will  make  8 pair 
of  wrists,  8 inches  in  breadth,  and  2 in  length. 

SEVENTH  CLASS — TRIMMING  AND  TUCKING. 

Frills,  or  flounces,  are  generally  allowed  three  times  the  length 
of  the  article  to  which  they  are  sewn.  Cut  the  frill  perfectly 
even,  and  hem  it  very  neatly,  divide  it  into  halves  or  quarters, 
making  a mark  at  each.  To  form  the  whip,  roll  in  the  raw  edge 
of  the  muslin  very  tightly,  with  the  thumb  upon  the  fore-finger  of 
the  left-hand,  8 or  10  threads  deep ; put  the  needle  in  on  the 
right  side,  pointing  towards  the  chest ; bring  it  out  on  the  wrong 


11 


side,  this  forms  the  stitch  ; take  the  stitches  very  even,  and  at 
such  distances  as  to  draw  easily,  draw  the  gathering  thread  at 
every  two  inches — if  the  gathering  thread  break,  or  be  not  long 
enough  to  whip  all  the  work,  take  a fresh  one  at  the  half,  or 
quarter  only  ; draw  in  the  fulness  to  the  width  of  the  article  to 
which  it  is  to  be  joined  ; pin  the  halves  and  quarters  of  each  toge- 
ther, and  regulate  the  fulness  equally;  fasten  the  gathering  thread 
by  twisting  it  round  a pin  ; in  sewing  on,  keep  the  frill  next  you, 
take  up  every  whip,  hold  the  needle  rather  aslant,  that  the  thread 
may  lie  between  the  whips.  See  specimen,  No.  8. 

Observation. — To  the  pupils  of  this  class,  pieces  of  muslin 
are  given  3J  inches  in  length,  and  3 in  width,  for  the  purpose  of 
teaching  them  to  make  tucks.  They  are  instructed  first  to  hem 
these  neatly,  when  hemmed,  to  fold  them  in  the  middle,  to  lay 
down  a tuck  10  or  12  threads  wide,  to  crease  down  the  tuck,  and 
to  run  it  to  the  end  by  a thread,  next  fold  at  the  quarters,  to 
mark  down  a tuck  at  each,  the  same  width  as  the  first,  and  to 
run  them  by  a thread  in  a similar  manner — frills  three  quarters  of 
an  inch  wide,  and  three  times  the  length  of  the  tucked  piece  (the 
four  sides  inclusive)  are  hemmed,  whipped,  and  sewn  on  it,  agree- 
ably to  the  foregoing  directions,  and  for  the  purpose  of  teaching 
these  works. 

EIGHTH  CLASS MARKING. 

To  form  the  true  marking  stitch,  the  needle  must  be  passed  in 
three  ways  before  the  stitch  is  perfect ; to  acquire  facility  in  it,  two 
or  three  rows  should  be  worked  before  attempting  to  form  the 
letters,  leaving  four  threads  between  the  first  row,  and  the  hem 
of  the  sampler,  and  eighteen  between  each  successive  row.  To 
form  the  stitch,  take  two  threads  each  way,  put  the  needle  in  at 
the  upper  corner  of  these,  and  bring  it  out  aslant , at  the  lower 
corner  ; make  the  next  stitch  straight  towards  you,  then  set  in  one 
across , this  completes  the  stitch.  Every  letter  or  figure  should  be 
begun  separately,  and  fastened  by  leaving  out  a little  of  the  end  of 
the  thread  at  the  right  side  of  the  cloth,  which  should  be  worked 
in  with  the  two  first  stitches — fasten  off  neatly  and  firmly,  and 
cut  off  the  thread  on  the  wrong  side  ; leave  two  or  four  threads 


12 


between  each  letter,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  article  which  is 
being  marked.  In  shirts,  cravats,  or  house-linen,  8 or  10  threads 
should  be  left.  Hem-stitch  and  veining  may  be  taught  by  means  of 
sampler  hems.  See  specimen,  No.  9. 

Observation. — This  work  is  taught  first  on  coarse  canvass, 
with  coloured  cotton,  and  afterwards  on  bolton  and  muslin.  It  is 
judged  better  to  make  the  sampler  of  a small  size,  viz.  about  8 
inches  long,  and  6 wide  ; and  if  necessary,  give  a succession  of 
these,  rather  than  spoil  a large  piece  of  canvass,  by  handling  before 
one  half  is  worked.  The  straight  letters,  being  of  the  most  sim- 
ple form,  are  first  taught,  next  the  slanting,  and  lastly  the  round. 
A sampler  of  the  size  mentioned  will  be  found  sufficiently  large  to 
contain  these,  and  giving  a new  one,  (on  which  the  capital  letters 
in  their  regular  order,  together  with  the  small  alphabet  and 
figures,  from  1 to  10,  may  be  marked,)  will  be  found  an  encou- 
ragement ; when  these  can  be  well  done,  one  of  bolton  is  given, 
which  should  be  worked  with  silk. 

With  the  eighth  class  the  second  division  terminates — and,  it 
is  expected,  that,  on  quitting  this  class,  a child  should  be  capable 
of  executing  any  piece  of  plain-work. 


THIRD  DIVISION. 

Ninth  Class Mending,  (comprising  Darning,  Grafting,  Patch- 

ing, and  Finedrawing.) 

Tenth  Class Making  (Flannel- work,  Buttons,  Shirts,  and 

various  other  useful  articles.) 

EleventhClass — Knitting  (Plain,  Fancy,  and  Scotch  stitches.) 
Twelfth  Class — Plaitting  (Rustic,  Dunstable,  and  Leghorn.) 

NINTH  CLASS — MENDING. 

Darning. — Never  begin  to  darn  exactly  at  the  hole,  but  10  or 
12  threads  beyond  it,  or  as  far  as  it  is  thin,  and  laying  a piece  of 
card  or  firm  paper  under  it,  will  be  found  useful.  Hold  the  work 
firmly,  across  the  first  and  second  fingers  of  the  left-hand.  Begin 
by  pointing  the  needle  from  you,  take  up  and  leave  down  a thread 


13 


alternately ; finish  one  line,  point  the  needle  towards  the  chest, 
darn  to  you,  taking  up  the  threads  you  left  before ; leave  a loop 
of  thread  at  the  end  of  each  row ; when  the  hole  is  filled  up  one 
way,  cross  it,  for  which  purpose,  in  plain  darns,  begin  at  the 
middle , and  finish  to  one  end.  Begin  again  at  the  middle,  and 
finish  to  the  other  end,  and  take  up  and  leave  down  a thread  alter- 
nately— one  row  should  lie  to  each  thread  of  the  cloth.  Table- 
linen  should  be  darned  in  diaper  pattern — stockings  should  be  run 
straight  along  each  row  of  the  stocking,  as  far  as  is  necessary, 
taking  up  one  loop  on  the  needle,  and  missing  two,  and  keeping 
as  many  stitches  on  the  needle  as  it  will  hold,  until  the  row  is 
completed. 

Observation. — To  teach  darning,  pieces  of  canvass  3J  inches 
square,  are  given  to  the  pupils  in  this  class ; these  are  hemmed 
round  even  to  a thread,  and  darned  with  coloured  cotton,  by  first 
tracing  9 or  10  threads  beyond  the  ground  of  the  darn,  which 
latter  is  formed  by  passing  the  needle  over  a certain  number  of 
threads,  to  the  size  to  which  it  is  proposed  to  make  the  darn. — 
When  an  equal  number  of  threads  have  been  left  each  way,  so  as 
to  make  the  ground  square,  it  is  crossed,  the  ground  being  of  one 
colour,  and  the  crossing  of  a different  one.  Plain  darning  is  first 
taught,  then  the  most  simple  diaper  pattern,  and  so  progressively 
through  the  entire.  When  they  are  familiar  with  the  different 
patterns,  and  are  capable  of  executing  them  with  neatness,  they 
are  permitted  the  use  of  silk  of  different  colours.  Half  a yard  of 
canvass,  of  the  usual  width,  18  inches,  will  make  25  pieces  for 
darning,  5 in  the  width,  and  5 in  the  length. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  models  of  the  different  diaper  darns,  see 
plates,  No.  1 & 2,  will  be  found  useful  to  the  learners  of  those 
works.  The  scale  consists  of  thirty-one  threads,  but  may  of 
course,  be  extended  to  any  number  required.  See  specimens, 
No.  10,  11,  12,  & 13. 

The  thin  lines  denote  the  warp,  and  the  dotted  lines  the  weft, 
the  little  mark  (X)  shews  the  threads  which  are  to  be  taken  up 
when  crossing. 


14 


A DARN  WHICH  EXACTLY  RESEMBLES  STOCKING-WEB. 

When  the  warp  is  laid,  hold  the  darn  across  the  fingers  in  the 
usual  manner,  that  is,  with  the  threads  lying  straight  opposite  you. 

It  is  immaterial  at  which  side  the  crossing  is  begun,  only  ob- 
serve the  following  directions. — When  begun  at  the  side  next  the 
right  hand,  put  the  needle  in  between  the  first  and  second  threads 
of  the  warp,  pass  it  under  the  first,  (point  to  the  right)  draw 
the  stitch,  hut  not  very  tightly , then  put  it  between  the  second  and 
third  threads,  under  the  second,  (pointed  to  the  rights)  draw  the 
stitch  as  before,  then  between  the  third  and  fourth  threads,  under 
the  third,  and  draw,  and  so  on,  under  each  successive  thread  to 
the  end  of  the  row.  Begin  the  next  row  at  the  left  hand  side,  for 
which  purpose,  put  the  needle  in  between  the  first  and  second 
threads,  under  the  first,  (pointed  to  the  left, ) draw  the  stitch,  then 
between  the  second  and  third  threads,  under  the  second,  pointed 
as  before,  and  draw  the  stitch ; continue  in  this  manner,  back  and 
forward,  through  each  row,  until  the  ehtire  is  filled  up.  To  darn 
stockings  in  this  way,  the  warp  should  be  laid  across , from  left  to 
right. 

TO  GRAFT  STOCKINGS. 

Hold  the  parts  which  are  to  be  joined,  lengthways  over  the 
fore-finger  of  the  left  hand — take  care  that  the  loops  are  even — 
fasten  the  thread  on  the  wrong  side,  in  the  manner  of  darning — 
take  the  two  loops  which  are  next  each  other  on  the  needle,  draw 
the  thread  through  them ; take  two  in  a similar  manner  on  the 
opposite  side,  making  the  last  loop  which  was  taken  on  either 
side,  the  first  of  the  next  stitch — grafting  may  also  be  done  on  the 
wrong  side.  Hold  the  parts  which  are  to  be  joined  in  the  manner 
of  sewing , with  the  loops  together,  and  the  wrong  side  outwards ; 
point  the  needle  from  you,  and  pass  it  through  the  two  loops 
which  lie  opposite  each  other  on  each  side ; draw  the  thread 
through  them,  then  point  it  to  you,  and  take  up  the  loop  which 
lies  next  the  thread,  on  the  side  farthest  from  you,  and  pass  it  a 
second  time  through  the  one  next  you — take  up  a fresh  loop  on 
this  side,  and  pass  the  needle  again  through  the  former ; continue 
in  this  manner  to  the  end,  taking  up  a fresh  loop  on  each  side 
alternately.  See  specimen,  No.  14. 


15 


Observation. — Pieces  of  stocking  web,  about  8 inches  square, 
are  furnished  to  the  learners  of  this  work,  a small  piece  is  taken 
out  of  the  middle,  an  inch  and  half  square,  the  sides  of  which  are 
cut  along  the  bar  of  the  web,  and  the  ends  carefully  ripped, — 
Another  bit  of  web,  of  exactly  the  same  length  is  given,  but  a 
little  wider>  so  as  to  allow  for  turning  in.  The  piece  is  then 
grafted  in  at  the  ends,  (as  described,)  and  the  sides  are  joined  by 
sewing  exactly  along  the  bar  on  the  wrong  side.  The  pieces  are 
grafted  in,  with  coloured  cotton. 

TO  MEND  A HOLE  IN  A STOCKING  CAUSED  BY  THE  DROPPING  OP  A 

STITCH. 

Put  your  hand  into  the  stocking,  keep  the  ladder  next  you, 
over  the  fore-finger  of  the  left  hand,  put  the  needle  into  the  loop 
or  stitch  which  has  fallen,  with  the  point  towards  you,  hold  the 
end  of  the  thread  under  the  thumb,  and  pass  the  needle  under  the 
first  bar  of  the  ladder ; next,  pass  the  eye  of  the  needle  pointing 
from  you,  upwards  through  the  loop,  then  draw  the  bar  through 
the  loop  with  the  thread,  both  ends  of  which,  hold  tight  between 
the  thumb  and  finger  for  that  purpose.  Continue  this  method 
until  the  entire  of  the  ladder  is  filled  up,  and  fasten  the  last  loop 
as  in  grafting. 


PATCHING. 

When  an  article  requires  to  have  a patch  set  in,  take  care  to 
cut  the  piece  with  which  it  is  to  be  repaired  exactly  by  a thread, 
and  sufficiently  large  to  cover  the  decayed  part  as  far  as  it  is  thin  ; 
lay  down  the  raw  edges  of  the  patch  exactly  by  a thread,  place  it 
on  the  decayed  part  by  a thread  also,  and  on  the  right  side,  tack 
it  on  slightly,  to  keep  it  in  its  place,  and  if  it  be  a striped  or 
coloured  article,  care  must  be  taken  before  cutting  the  patch,  to 
arrange  each,  so  as  to  make  the  stripes  or  pattern  agree.  Sew 
them  neatly  together,  on  the  right  side,  turn  the  article,  and  cut 
out  the  decayed  part,  leaving,  however,  sufficient  to  form  the 
hem — make  the  seam  very  flat  and  smooth,  nick  it  a little  at  the 
four  corners,  to  make  the  hem  sit  neatly  at  those  parts,  turn  in 
the  raw  edge,  and  hem.  The  patch  may  also  be  set  in  by  half- 
backstitch, and  then  hemmed,  in  this  latter  way  the  seams  will  all 
appear  on  the  wrong  side.  See  specimen,  No.  15. 


16 


Observation. — Pieces  of  calico,  about  3 inches  square,  are 
given  for  the  purpose  of  teaching  this  very  useful  branch  of  repair  ; 
when  hemmed,  a square  piece  is  cut  out  of  the  centre,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  half  an  inch  from  the  edge,  equally  on  the  four  sides — 
another  piece  of  somewhat  larger  dimensions,  (to  allow  for 
turning  in)  is  then  given,  which  is  set  in  as  already  described.— 
Striped,  or  coloured  calico,  of  a small  pattern,  seems  to  he  best 
suited  to  this  work,  as  it  affords  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of 
precision  and  neatness,  in  making  the  stripes  or  patterns  agree. 

FINE-DRAWING  CLOTH. 

Pare  the  edges  perfectly  even,  hold  the  two  parts  which  are  to 
be  joined  lengthways  on  the  first  finger  of  the  left  hand — knot 
the  end  of  the  thread,  pass  the  needle  through  the  edge  of  one 
piece,  pointing  from  you,  draw  then  through  the  edge  of  the 
other  piece,  pointing  to  you,  and  so  on,  taking  a stitch  on  each 
side,  alternately.  Draw  the  stitches  closely  together,  but  the 
edges  must  not  overlap.  The  stitches  should  be  set  in,  at  half 
the  depth  of  the  cloth,  and  so  as  to  join  the  parts  firmly,  but  should 
not  appear  on  the  right  side.  See  specimen,  No.  16. 

Observation. — Small  bits  of  cloth  of  different  colours,  and 
angular  shapes,  are  furnished  to  the  learners  of  this  work.  They 
are  instructed  to  join  them  conformably  to  the  foregoing  direc- 
tions. 


TENTH  CLASS. FLANNEL  ARTICLES,  &C. 

In  making  up  articles  of  flannel,  a knowledge  of  herring-bone 
stitch  is  requisite. — To  acquire  this  knowledge,  small  pieces  of 
muslin  are  given  to  the  pupils  in  this  class,  upon  which  they  first 
practise  the  stitch.  When  they  can  do  this  perfectly,  they  are 
given  two  small  bits  of  flannel,  which  they  are  taught  to  join,  and 
afterwards  to  herring-bone  all  round. 

MUSLIN,  HERRING-BONE. 

Turn  down  a fold,  20  or  22  threads  from  the  raw  edge,  then 
draw  two  threads,  about  12  or  14  threads  asunder,  and  3 or  4 
from  the  double  edge.  This  should  be  done  on  each  of  the  four 


11 


sides — next  fold  the  piece  in  the  middle , and  draw  two  threads  at 
6 or  7 threads  distance  from  it  on  each  side,  and  so  as  to  leave  12 
or  14  between ; then  fold  at  the  quarters,  draw  threads  at  each  in 
a similar  manner,  and  herring-bone  as  follows.  Put  the  needle  in 
on  the  wrong  side,  bring  it  out  on  the  right,  then  put  it  back  from 
you,  4 threads  on  one  line,  and  4 threads  back  on  the  other  line, 
and  so  on,  this  will  form  the  herring-bone  stitch.  See  specimens, 
Nos.  17  & 18. 

Observation. — The  pieces  of  muslin,  given  for  the  purpose  of 
practising  this  stitch,  are  about  4 inches  in  length,  and  3 inches 
in  width,  and  the  bits  of  flannel  are  each  1^  inches  wide,  and  3^ 
inches  long. 

BUTTONS. 

Cut  two  round  bits  of  calico,  or  muslin,  (the  size  of  these  must 
be  determined  by  the  size  to  which  it  is  intended  to  make  the 
buttons,)  gather  each,  separately , round  the  edge,  and  put  into 
them  a layer  or  two  of  the  same  material,  to  give  them  firmness. 
Draw  the  gathers  closely,  and  make  them  even  at  the  edge  ; place 
them  one  over  the  other,  the  gathered  parts  inside,  tack  them 
slightly,  to  keep  them  even,  work  them  round  the  edge  in  button- 
hole stitch  ; in  doing  this,  it  will  be  found  better  to  put  the  needle 
in  on  the  right  side.  A small  star  should  be  worked  in  the 
middle. 

Buttons  may  be  also  made  by  rolling  soft  white  cotton  on  the 
ends  of  a small  pointed  scissors,  in  the  shape  of  a cone,  wide  at 
the  bottom,  and  tapering  towards  the  top — when  it  is  of  the  size 
you  wish,  take  it  off  carefully,  hold  it  between  the  thumb  and 
first  finger  of  the  left  hand,  and  work  it  over  in  button-hole  stitch, 
with  fine  thread  or  cotton,  always  bringing  the  needle  out  through 
the  middle  of  the  button. 


MAKING. 

The  scholars  having,  in  their  progress  through  the  preceding 
classes,  learned  to  execute  the  various  kinds  of  work  which  are 
comprised  in  a shirt,  are  in  this  class  instructed  in  the  manner  of 
putting  one  together;  a shirt  being  considered  the  most  perfect 

D 


18 


piece  of  plain-work,  and  comprehending  in  it  all  the  different 
sorts  of  work  which  they  have  already  learned.  They  are  also 
taught  to  cut  out,  and  make  up  various  other  articles  of  apparel, 
such  as  frocks,  chemises,  petticoats,  &c.  &c. 

HEART-BIT. 

Before  commencing  the  shirt,  small  pieces  of  muslin  are  given 
to  each  girl,  for  the  purpose  of  learning  to  settle  in,  and  work  the 
breast-gusset.  The  pieces  are  3^  inches  deep,  and  3f  inches 
wide ; these  are  first  stitched  and  knotted  round,  then  cut  down 
the  middle,  about  If  inches  (or  half  the  depth ,)  arid  a small  gusset, 
set  in,  in  the  manner  that  breasts  of  shirts  are  usually  done.  See 
specimen,  No.  19.  The  pupils  are  then  supplied  with  pieces  of 
muslin,  7 inches  in  length,  and  5J  inches  in  width,  and  suitable 
trimmings,  for  the  purpose  of  learning  to  make  a shirt ; and  as 
this  may  be  considered  a finishing  class,  there  is  no  Monitress, 
but  it  comes  under  the  immediate  care  and  superintendence  of  the 
Mistress,  who  instructs  the  pupils  in  the  proper  arrangement, 
mode  of  executing,  and  proportioning  the  different  parts  to  each 
other,  and  finally?  in  cutting  out.  See  specimen,  No.  20. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  A SHIRT. 

In  a trimmed  shirt  there  hre  twenty  separate  parts,  in  a plain 
one,  nineteen, — namely,  the  body,  two  sleeves,  two  wristbands, 
two  sleeve-gussets,  two  sleeve-binders,  two  shoulder-straps,  two 
neck-gussets,  a collar,  two  side-gussets,  two  wrist-gussets,  a gusset 
for  the  breast,  and,  if  trimmed,  the  frill. 

The  parts  which  require  stitching,  should  be  done  first.  Fold 
the  body  across  at  the  middle,  so  as  to  form  back  and  front,  then 
divide  it  into  three  equal  parts — one  third  part  is  for  the  arm  to 
pass  through,  the  second  for  the  seam  at  the  side,  and  the  third 
to  remain  open  at  the  tail. 

Before  sewing  the  side-seams,  tack  on  the  sleeve-binders — and 
if  they  have  selvages,  place  them  next  the  sleeve. 

Sew  the  side-seams,  in  shirts  they  should  be  on  the  right 
side,  therefore,  let  the  hem  at  the  ends  be  on  the  contrary  side. 

Next  put  in  the  side  gussets,  then  fold  the  body  in  two,  (placing 
the  selvages  together,)  and  cut  down  at  the  centre  to  form  the 


19 


opening*  at  the  breast, — in  a man’s  shirt,  the  breast  is  generally 
five  nails  in  length — in  a smaller  one,  it  should  be  proportioned 
to  the  size,  rather  more  than  a third  part  of  the  length  of  the  body. 
Hem  the  breast,  and  set  in  the  gusset.  The  neck  gussets  should 
next  be  put  in,  for  which  purpose,  place  the  straight  part  of  the 
neck  gusset  on  the  shoulder-strap,  and  pin  the  strap  on  the  shoul- 
der of  the  shirt,  in  the  usual  manner — this  will  shew  how  far  it 
is  necessary  to  cut  the  shirt  at  the  neck.  Then  cut  along  the  top 
of  the  shirt,  transversely  at  each  side  of  the  breast,  so  far  only  as 
the  angle  of  the  gusset.  Sew,  or  stitch  in  the  neck-gussets — the 
seams  and  the  raw  edges  should  be  on  the  right  side. 

Turn  down  a fold  on  each  side  of  the  shoulder-strap,  and  draw 
threads  for  the  stitching,  five  or  six  threads  from  the  double  edge. 
Then  fold  the  strap  in  the  middle,  half  wrong  side  outwards,  and 
tack  it  slightly  on  the  shoulder  of  the  shirt,  open  it  again  and  cut 
it  in  the  middle,  at  the  end  which  is  to  be  next  the  collar,  nearly 
to  the  angle  of  the  neck-gusset.  When  cut,  separate  the  parts, 
and  place  one  of  them  on  each  side  of  the  neck-gusset,  over  the 
seam,  herring-bone  the  strap  slightly,  from  side  to  side,  to  keep 
it  in  its  place,  and  settle  the  other  strap  in  the  same  manner — 
stitch  on  the  shoulder-straps,  turn  in  the  raw  edges  where  the 
straps  were  divided,  and  stitch  them  down  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  other  parts.  Next  hem  down  the  sleeve-binders,  and  finish 
them  across  at  the  ends,  divide  and  gather  the  neck,  according  to 
rule,  (a  small  slope  should  be  taken  out  at  the  breast  in  front.) — 
If  the  gathering  thread  break,  take  a fresh  one  at  the  half,  or 
quarters  only — white  silk  answers  best  for  gathering  the  neck — 
then  set  on  the  collar.  The  sleeves  should  now  be  prepared,  let 
them  be  first  hemmed  at  the  wrist- openings,  the  length  of  the 
open  part  should  be  equal  to  half  the  length  of  the  wristband — 
gather  the  sleeves,  and  set  on  the  wristbands  conformably  to  rule, 
either  stitch  and  fell,  or  sew  and  fell  in  the  sleeve-gussets,  and 
join  up  the  sleeves,  then  put  in  the  wrist-gussets.  Gather  the 
tops  of  the  sleeves,  and  set  them  in.  Next  work  the  button- 
holes, they  should  be  cut  in  the  left  side  of  the  collar  and  breast, 
and  in  that  part  of  the  wristband  which  lies  at  the  back  of  the 
hand.  Sew  on  the  buttons,  then  mark,  on  the  front  of  the  shirt, 
over  the  right  side  gusset.  The  hem  at  the  breast,  and  the  shoul- 


20 


der-straps,  should  be  set  in  without  gathers— and  the  shoulder- 
straps  both  at  the  collar,  and  where  they  are  divided  at  the  point 
of  the  neck -gusset,  should  be  overcast  in  button-hole  stitch. 

ELEVENTH  CLASS — KNITTING. 

All  the  scholars  are  taught  to  knit,  with  the  exception  of  those 
who  compose  the  first  and  second  classes  of  needle- work,  who, 
from  their  age  and  size,  are  generally  incapable  of  managing  this 
sort  of  work  sufficiently  well,  to  render  their  learning  it  profita- 
ble. The  other  classes  knit,  each  in  succession,  one  day  in  the 
week,  according  to  the  following  arrangement. 

3 Class,  4 Class,  5 Class,  6 & 7 Classes,  8 & 9 Classes,  1 0 Class, 
On  Monday,  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Thursday,  Friday,  Saturday. 

The  Monitress  supplies  each  of  the  children,  with  a small  ball 
of  worsted,  and  two  knitting  needles.  She  then  teaches  them 
how  to  cast  on  the  stitches,  and  they  practise  by  first  knitting 
square  pieces,  consisting  of  about  36  stitches.  When  they  have 
acquired  some  degree  of  expertness  in  the  management  of  the 
needles,  and  can  knit  with  a tolerably  good  grain,  they  are  taught 
to  knit  stockings,  children’s  boots,  night-caps,  &c.  &c.  See  spe- 
cimen, No.  21. 

Observation. — The  pieces  which  are  produced  by  the  learners 
when  of  a suitable  size,  are  taken  off  the  needles,  by  casting  one 
loop  over  another,  until  they  are  all  taken  off,  then  sew  up  the 
piece  neatly,  and,  if  liked,  fringe  it ; they  may  be  converted  into 
wrist  warmers,  and  given  as  premiums,  either  to  those  who  knit 
them,  or  to  others.  They  might  be  also  made  into  cradle  blankets, 
by  joining  several  of  them  neatly. 

TO  KNIT  A FRENCH  HEEL. 

Knit  the  nine  middle  stitches  of  the  heel  in  rows , like  the  re- 
mainder, taking  up  one  of  the  other  stitches,  with  the  last  stitch 
of  every  row,  until  all  are  taken  off — when  this  heel  is  finished 
nine  stitches  remain,  this  number  is  calculated  for  a large  stocking. 

TO  KNIT  SHAWLS,  OR  NECK-WARMERS. 

Cast  on  stitches  to  the  size  you  wish  to  make  the  article, 
observing  only  to  have  an  odd  number.  Knit  the  first  row  plain, 


21 


take  off  the  first  stitch  on  each  end  plain,  knit  in  rows  back  and 
forward,  like  a garter — to  form  the  pattern,  turn  the  thread  in 
between  the  two  needles,  so  as  to  be  next  you,  and  knit  two 
stitches  together  into  one,  turn  in  the  thread  between  the  needles 
again,  and  knit  two  stitches  as  before — finish  one  row  in  this 
way,  turn  the  knitting,  take  off  the  first  stitch  plain,  turn  the 
thread  in  between  the  needles  at  every  stitch,  and  knit  two  toge- 
ther into  one,  continue  each  row  in  this  way,  to  the  end.  Diffe- 
rent colours  may  be  set  in,  and  shaded  in  stripes. 

Knitting  one  •plain  round  between  each  row,  (such  as  above 
described,)  will  alter  the  appearance,  and  give  another  very  good 
pattern. 

DOUBLE  KNITTING. 

Fit  for  Blankets , or  Under  Petticoats . 

Cast  on  stitches  to  the  size  required,  take  off  the  first  stitch 
without  knitting,  then  turn  the  thread  in  towards  you,  in  the 
same  manner  as  for  a turn  stitch  at  the  seam  of  a stocking,  and 
take  off  the  next  stitch,  but  without  knitting  it — turn  the  thread 
back  from  you,  and  knit  the  succeeding  stitch,  bring  the  thread 
in  toivards  you  again,  and  take  off  one  without  knitting,  turn  it 
back  from  you,  and  knit  the  next  stitch,  continue  in  this  manner 
to  the  end  of  one  row — turn  the  knitting,  as  for  a garter,  and 
knit  every  second  stitch  as  before,  only  observing  to  pass  over 
those  stitches  which  had  been  knit  at  the  other  side. 

Another  kind  more  elastic . 

Cast  on  the  stitches,  and  take  the  first  off  plain,  turn  in  the 
thread  next  you,  and  take  off  the  next  stitch  without  knitting,  as 
in  the  preceding  description,  then  keeping  the  thread  still  next 
you,  knit  the  two  succeeding  stitches  together  into  one,  turn  in  the 
thread  next  you  again,  and  take  off  a stitch  without  knitting,  keep 
the  thread  still  next  you,  and  knit  the  two  next  stitches  together 
into  one — proceed  in  this  manner  through  each  successive  row, 
backward  and  forward  like  a garter.  This  knitting  will  be  ribbed. 
Cast  on  an  odd  stitch. 

Knitting  which  will  answer  either  for  Insertion  or  Fringe . 

Cast  on  six,  eight,  or  ten  loops,  in  proportion  to  the  width  you 


22 


require.  Before  you  begin  to  knit,  turn  the  thread,  with  which 
you  are  to  knit  round  over  the  right  hand  needle,  so  as  to  form  a 
loop  on  it,  then  knit  the  two  first  loops  off  the  left  hand  needle 
into  one.  (They  should  be  knit  together  exactly  in  the  same 
manner,  as  a turn  stitch  at  the  seam  of  a stocking.)  Turn  the 
thread  round  the  needle  again,  and  knit  the  two  next  loops  toge- 
ther into  one,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  former,  turn  the  thread 
round  the  needle  between  every  two  loops  you  knit  together, 
which  both  widens  and  narrows,  and,  at  the  end  of  every  row, 
turn  the  thread  round  the  right  hand  needle,  before  you  begin  the 
succeeding  one — continue  each  successive  row  in  this  manner. — 
To  convert  this  Knitting  into  Fringe,  draw  the  stitches  one  out 
of  the  other,  (beginning  with  the  stitch  which  it  was  first  cast 
on,)  to  half  of  the  entire  depth,  or  more  if  liked ; the  part  not 
ripped , makes  a handsome  head  or  top  for  the  Fringe. 

SCOTCH  KNITTING. 

Take  one  end  of  the  thread  in  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  right 
place  the  other  part  of  the  thread  over  it  in  the  manner  of  a loop, 
draw  the  thread  through  the  loop,  like  a chain,  and  make  as  many 
of  these  as  you  require  stitches — they  should  be  drawn  pretty 
close,  and  appear  like  chain-stitch,  knit  the  first  and  last  stitch 
together  to  join  them.  This  sort  of  knitting  is  done  with  one 
needle  only,  which  has  a hook  on  the  end,  and  there  is  never 
more  than  one  stitch  on  the  needle  at  a time.  Put  the  needle 
through  the  side  of  the  loop  which  is  next  you,  put  the  thread 
over  the  hook,  and  draw  it  through  the  loop,  continue  in  this 
manner  through  each  successive  loop,  round  and  round,  until 
finished.  To  widen,  knit  2 stitches  in  one  loop — to  narrow,  put 
the  needle  into  two  loops,  and  knit  them  as  one.  The  ends  of 
night  caps,  or  tops  of  children’s  boots,  may  be  bordered  by  taking 
up  the  loop  on  the  side  furthest  from  you. 

TWELFTH  CLASS — PLAITTING.  (Rustic.) 

Fasten  4 straws,  turn  the  outside  straw  on  the  right  hand, 
under  one,  and  over  one,  turn  the  next  outside  straw  on  the  same 
side,  straight  from  right  to  left , under  the  two  middle  ones,  and 
over  the  outside — then  turn  this  straw  from  the  left  side,  under 


23 


one,  and  over  one — turn  the  next  straw  on  the  same  side,  straight 
across,  from  left  to  right , under  the  two  middle  straws,  and  over 
the  outside  one,  continue  in  this  manner,  turning  twice  on  each 
side.  Fresh  straw  should  always  be  joined  in  at  the  right  hand. 

plaitting.  ( Dunstable .) 

Take  seven  straws,  fasten  them,  keep  four  on  one  side,  and 
three  on  the  other,  turn  the  outside  4th  straw,  under  one  straw, 
and  over  two — then,  on  the  other  side,  turn  the  outside  straw 
under  one,  and  over  two,  and  so,  on  each  alternate  side. 

plaitting.  (Leghorn.) 

Take  13  straws,  tie  them  together,  keep  7 to  the  right  hand, 
and  6 to  the  left,  turn  the  straw  next  the  right  hand,  back  under 
two  straws,  over  two,  and  under  two.  Then  on  the  left  side, 
turn  the  outside  straw,  under  two,  over  two,  and  binder  two, 
continue  so,  on  each  side  alternately. 

Observations. — A selection  is  made  of  scholars  from  different 
classes,  who  are  taught  to  plait  straw  on  one  day  in  each  week. 
The  joining  in  of  straws,  should  be  in  the  centre  of  the  plait. 


FOURTH  DIVISION. 

Thirteenth  Class — Muslin  work. 

Fourteenth  Class — Lace  work. 

Fifteenth  Class — Worsted  work. 

Sixteenth  Class — Thread  work. 

Such  girls  of  the  tenth  class,  as  are  most  distinguished  for 
attention  and  neatness  in  executing  plain-work,  and  to  whom  the 
works  of  the  Fourth  Division  are  most  likely  to  be  useful,  are,  by 
way  of  reward  and  encouragement,  selected  on  particular  days  in 
each  week,  at  the  discretion  of  the  Teacher,  and  taught  the 
various  works  comprehended  under  the  foregoing  terms. 


24 


DIRECTIONS  TOR  CUTTING  OUT  MEN’S  SHIRTS. 

A piece  of  linen  twenty-six  yards  long,  will,  unless  the  person 
be  very  tall,)  make  eight  shirts : they  may  be  cut  by  the  follow- 
ing directions.  (The  linen  should  be  yard  wide.) 

1st.  Cut  off  seventeen  yards  for  the  eight  shirt  bodies,  divide 
this  into  eight  equal  parts,  each  of  which  will  be  about  two  yards 
and  half- quarter  long. 

2dly.  Cut  off  five  yards,  and  half  a quarter,  for  eight  pair  of 
sleeves,  divide  it  into  eight  breadths,  each  breadth  will  make  one 
pair  of  sleeves,  half  yard  wide,  and  about  twenty  inches  long. 

3dly.  Cut  off  one  yard.  This  will  make  six  collars,  half  a 
yard  long,  so  that  the  length  of  two  will  cut  out  of  the  length  of 
the  cloth,  and  the  width  of  three  out  of  the  width  of  the  cloth. 

4thly.  Cut  off  twelve  inches.  For  six  pair  of  sleeve-gussets, 
six  inches  square,  so  that  there  will  be  two  in  the  length,  and  six 
in  the  width  of  the  cloth. 

5thly.  Cut  off  half  a yard.  Which  will  make  six  pair  of  wrist- 
bands, nine  inches  long,  and  six  inches  wide,  as  there  will  be  two 
in  the  length,  and  six  in  the  width  of  the  cloth. 

6thly.  Cut  off  ten  inches  and  half.  For  six  pair  of  shoulder- 
straps,  they  should  be  three  inches  wide,  thus  twelve  may  be  cut 
from  the  width  of  the  cloth. 

7thly.  Cut  off  half  a yard,  and  three  nails.  This  will  make 
six  pair  of  sleeve-binders,  each  three  inches  wide,  so  that  twelve 
will  cut  out  of  the  width  of  the  cloth. 

8thly.  Cut  off  a breadth  nine  inches  long.  For  neck  and  side 
gussets,  both  may  be  of  the  same  size,  namely,  four  and  half 
inches  square,  so  that  two  may  be  cut  out  of  the  length,  and 
eight  out  of  the  width  of  the  cloth,  there  will  be  sixteen  square 
pieces — each  square  folded  like  a half  handkerchief,  and  cut 
across  into  two  parts,  will  make  a pair  of  either  kind.  The  six- 
teen pieces  will  answer  for  eight  shirts. 

One  yard  will  remain,  out  of  which  cut  the  pieces  wanting  to 
complete  the  eight  shirts — namely,  two  collars,  two  pair  of  wrist- 
bands, two  pair  of  sleeve-binders,  two  pair  of  shoulder-straps, 
and  two  pair  of  sleeve-gussets.  Cut  them  by  the  annexed 
example. 


25 


It  should  be  observed,  that  these  calculations  exceed  the  quan- 
tity of  26  yards,  by  about  6 inches : but  most  pieces  really 
measure  somewhat  more  than  they  are  stated  to  contain,  so  that 
it  is  hoped  the  scale  will  be  found  to  answer.  Besides,  in  most 
cases,  the  collars  need  not  be  more  than  three  half-quarters  and 
nail  in  length  ; so  that  half  a quarter  less  would  answer  for  the  six 
first-mentioned,  which  would  make  the  calculation  quite  exact. 


Instead  of  specifying  the  particular  width  of  the  material  to  be 
used  in  making  up  any  of  the  Articles  included  in  the  following 
Tables,  it  has  been  thought  more  useful  to  lay  down  general  rules, 
exactly  suited  to  the  respective  sizes,  and  which  can  be  applied 
equally  to  materials  of  any  width. 


E 


26 


27 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  CUTTING  OUT  SHIFTS. 


Shifts  may  be  cut  three  different  ways — 

1st.  Sew  two  breadths  of  linen  together,  like  a bag,  and  pin 
the  seams  together  exactly ; then  fold  the  shift  across,  so  that, 
when  folded,  one  side  will  be  narrow,  and  the  other  wide,  (in 
such  proportion  to  the  width  of  the  entire  as  may  be  seen  by 
reference  to  the  following  scale ;)  set  in  a pin,  and  do  the  same  at 
the  opposite  end  in  a contrary  direction ; crease  the  linen  down 
diagonally,  and  cut  from  one  mark  to  the  other. 

2ndly.  Arrange  the  width  at  the  shoulder,  and,  before  sewing , 
take  off  a gore,  on  one  side,  the  full  length  of  the  shift,  and  sew 
it  on  to  the  other  side. 

3dly.  Arrange  the  width  at  the  shoulder,  and  take  off  a gore 
on  each  side  at  the  top,  down  one  half  of  the  entire  length,  and 
sloped  to  a point ; sew  these  gores  on  at  bottom  : in  this  latter 
way,  no  seams  will  be  necessary  on  the  shoulders. 

Three  shifts,  large  enough  for  most  persons,  may  be  cut  out  of 
five  breadths  of  ^ or  yard-wide  linen,  sewn  together,  and  then 
folded  back  and  forward  into  three  equal  parts : arrange  the  width 
of  gores,  and  cut  them  diagonally,  according  to  the  directions 
given  with  the  first  example. 


28 


29 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  CUTTING  OUT  FROCKS, 


No  exact  directions  can  be  given  for  the  cutting  out  or  making 
of  frocks,  as  so  much  diversity  prevails,  both  as  to  taste,  shape,  &c. 
therefore  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  lay  down  rules  for  the 
bodies  of  the  four  largest  sizes  in  the  following  scale,  which  is 
submitted  rather  as  a guide  than  as  a positive  rule.  The  length 
must  be  always  determined  by  the  size  of  the  child,  and  allowance 
made  for  tucking,  so  as  to  suit  an  increase  of  growth.  The  few 
following  hints  may,  perhaps,  be  found  useful  to  those  who  have 
not  had  much  experience  in  cutting  out.  The  sleeves,  backs,  and 
sides  of  coloured  frocks,  should  be  cut  by  placing  the  cloth  double , 
the  right  sides  together ; and  they  will  answer  for  the  opposite 
arms,  sides,  &c.  &c.  In  printed  articles,  or  where  the  two  sides  of 
the  cloth  are  not  exactly  alike, — such  as  twilled  stuffs,  calicoes,  &c., 
the  gores  cannot  be  cut  one  out  of  the  other , as  they  will  not  answer 
for  the  opposite  sides,  unless  two  frocks  be  cut  out  at  the  same 
time.  The  gores  of  coloured  cloth  should  be  cut  by  folding  the 
cloth  in  the  middle  selvages  together ; then  cut  diagonally ; the 
pieces  taken  out  of  the  middle  will  assist  in  making  the  body  or 
sleeves,  &c . 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  TUCKS. 


When  it  is  determined  at  what  distance  from  the  hem  the  tuck 
is  to  be  placed,  make  a fold  in  the  cloth,  and  set  in  a pin.  Then 
place  the  edges  of  the  hem  exactly  together,  about  two  fingers 
distant,  and  make  another  fold,  at  the  same  distance  from  the 
edge  as  the  former ; crease  down  the  cloth  from  one  mark  to  the 
other,  and  proceed  in  this  manner  until  all  is  laid  down,  so  that 
the  fold  may  be  exactly  at  an  equal  distance  from  the  edge  all 
round.  Then  lay  down  a double  fold,  the  width  of  the  tuck  ; 
crease  it  down  well,  and  turn  it  back  again  ; run  it  neatly  along 
the  line  which  was  formed  by  the  creasing  down.  Make  the  next 
tuck  exactly  as  you  did  the  first, — using  the  edge  of  the  tuck  as  a 
guide,  in  this  instance,  as  the  edge  of  the  hem  was  used  in  the 
former. 


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at  the  neck  in  front.  ^ 


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35 


Front  6^  Inches. 


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CAPS,  WHICH  MAY  BE  WORN  BY  EITHER  First.  I Second.  I Third.  Fourth. 


36 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  KNITTING. 


When  knitting  socks,  or  stockings,  cast  on  the  loops  equally 
on  each  of  three  needles,  and  knit  them  with  a fourth ; one  addi- 
tional loop  should  be  cast  on  one  needle,  to  form  the  seam  at  the 
back  of  the  stocking.  Knit  the  first  round  plain.  Rib  from  six  to 
ten  rounds,  or  more,  according  to  the  size  of  the  stocking,  or  the 
coarseness  of  the  thread.  The  ribs  are  formed  by  knitting  two 
or  three  stitches  plain,  and  turning  the  same  number,  and  their 
use  is  to  keep  the  top  of  the  stocking  from  curling  down.  To 
form  turn-stitches,  bring  the  thread  in  between  the  two  needles 
with  which  you  knit,  so  as  to  be  next  you,  and  put  the  needle  into 
the  loop  on  the  right-hand  side,  instead  of  the  left ; put  the  thread 
round  it,  and  turn  the  stitch  back  from  you — then  reverse  the 
thread  to  its  usual  place,  and  go  on  as  at  first.  After  the  ribs, 
begin  the  seam — that  is,  turn  a stitch  every  second  round,  at  the 
middle  of  the  needle,  on  which  you  left  the  odd  stitch.  If  it  be 
necessary  in  the  course  of  the  knitting,  to  fasten  in  a fresh  thread, 
reverse  the  ends  of  the  thread  upon  each  other,  and  knit  five  or 
six  stitches  with  the  thread  thus  doubled. 

If  a stitch  drop,  take  it  up  with  the  right  hand  needle,  put  it 
on  the  left,  then  take  up  the  loop  at  the  back,  put  it  on  the  left 
needle,  and  cast  the  stitch  over  it. 

A stocking  should  be  as  long,  as  twice  the  width  of  the  top, 
before  it  is  begun  to  be  narrowed,  (for  very  tall  persons,  perhaps, 
rather  more,)  therefore,  knit  as  many  rounds  before  narrowing, 
as  there  are  stitches  on  the  needles. 

To  form  the  calf,  narrow  always  at  each  side  of  the  seam,  and 
when  narrowing  at  the  right  side  of  the  seam,  or  at  the  right  side 
of  the  instep,  knit  two  stitches  together  into  one ; at  the  left  side 
of  the  seam,  or  the  left  side  of  the  instep,  take  off  a stitch  without 
knitting  ; knit  the  next  stitch,  and  cast  the  former  over  the  latter. 
Leave  one  stitch  plain  on  each  side  of  the  seam,  between  it  and 
the  narrowings.  Narrow  always  at  a turned  stitch ; knit  five 
rounds  plain  between  each  narrowing,  except  the  two  last — 
between  which  an  additional  round  or  two  may  be  left. 


37 


A.  full  sized  stocking,  should  be  reduced  nearly  one  third  for  the 
ancle.  A child’s  not  quite  so  much. 

The  length  of  the  ancle,  after  the  narrowings,  should  be  equal 
to  one  half  of  its  width  ; for  example,  if  there  were  28  loops  on 
each  side  of  three  needles,  making  a total  of  84  loops — 42  rounds 
should  be  knit. 

When  about  to  raise  the  heel,  divide  the  stitches  in  half,  back 
and  front,  for  the  instep  and  the  heel ; the  seam  stitch  should  be 
at  the  middle  of  the  heel.  Knit  the  heel  in  rows  back  and  for- 
ward— every  second  row  must  be  turned  stitches,  and  the  heel 
should  be  square  before  it  is  closed  ; narrow  four  or  five  times  at 
each  side  of  the  seam  before  closing  the  heel,  to  give  it  a little 
roundness.  Close  the  heel,  either  in  the  manner  directed  for  the 
French  heel,  or  divide  the  stitches  at  the  seam,  half  on  each 
needle — place  them  together,  and  take  the  seam  stitch  on  a spare 
needle ; take  off  a loop  from  each  of  the  former,  and  knit  them 
together  into  one,  cast  the  first  loop  over  the  last,  between  every 
two  you  join,  until  all  are  knit  off,  and  one  loop  only  remains. — 

-f  Take  up  the  loops  at  each  side  of  the  heel  on  the  second  row,  and 
ii  widen  at  every  third  stitch,  the  second  round.  ^ Narrow  at  the  / 
ll  heel  sides  of  the  instep,  every  second  round^  until  the  foot  is  the 
same  width  as  the  ancle.  From  the  taking  up  of  the  loops  at  the 
heel,  to  the  narrowing  at  the  toe,  should  be  at  least  as  long  as  the 
top  of  the  stocking  is  wide.  Begin  the  toe,  which  may  be  closed 
in,  two  or  three  different  ways,  first ; divide  the  stitches  in  half, 
and  narrow  twice  at  each  side,  leaving  two  plain  stitches  between  ; 
narrow  twice,  leaving  three  rounds  between — twice,  leaving  two 
rounds — twice,  leaving  one — and  then  every  round,  until  from 
sixteen  to  twenty  stitches  are  left : then  place  the  needles  toge- 
ther, take  a loop  off  each,  and  knit  them  together  in  the  same 
manner,  as  directed,  for  the  heel.  Another  mode  of  narrowing  at 
the  toe. — Narrow  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  every  needle, 

leaving  five  rounds  plain  between  the  first — then  four  rounds 

then  three — two  rounds  twice — one  plain  round  three  or  four  times 
— and  then  every  round,  until  all  are  off.  Another  way. — Narrow 
at  the  beginning  of  each  needle — the  next  round,  narrow  at  the 
end  only — then  again  at  the  beginning  only — and  so  on,  succes- 
sively, until  all  are  off.  These  rules  being  general,  will  answer 
for  stockings  of  any  size. 


38 


A SCALE  OF 

SIZES  FOR 

STOCKINGS. 

SIZES. 

1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

Total  number  of  Stitches 

91 

99 

109 

121 

133 

151 

On  each  Needle 

30,30,31 

33,33,33 

36,36,37 

40,40,41 

44,44,45 

50,50,51 

Rounds  before  narrowing.... 

92 

99 

109 

121 

133 

151 

Narrowings  in  the  leg 

10 

12 

14 

17 

19 

22 

Stitches  after  narrowing 

71 

75 

81 

87 

95 

107 

Number  of  rounds  from  1 

35 

37 

40 

43 

47 

53 

narrowing  to  the  heel...  j 

1 

Stitches  for  heel 

35 

37 

41 

43 

47 

53 

Stitches  for  instep. 

36 

38 

40 

44 

48 

54 

Rows  in  the  heel 

36 

38 

40 

44 

48 

54 

Stitches  taken  up  on  each  side 

18 

19 

20 

22 

24 

27 

Stitches  widened 

9 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

Total  on  each  instep  needle., 

.. 

27 

, 28 

30 

33 

36 

40 

Narrowings  at  each  instep.., 

•• 

10 

10 

10 

12 

13 

14 

Rounds  from  taking  up  the 

loops  at  heel,  to  the  nar- 

46 

49 

54 

60 

66 

75 

rowing  at  the  toe _ 

All  the  proportions  in  this  Table  are  for  worsted,  and  rather  coarse  needles. 


MODEL  SCHOOL,  KILDARE  PLACE,  DUBLIN. 


The  Children  are  to  pay  attention  to  the  following  Rules : — 

To  go  to  and  from  School,  in  an  orderly  manner. 

To  be  silent  in  School. 

To  be  obedient  to  Monitors. 

To  avoid  quarrelling  and  bad  words. 

To  obey  the  instructions  of  Parents  and  Friends. 

To  avoid  bad  company — for, 

Evil  communications  corrupt  good  manners. 

And 

To  speak  the  Truth. 


THE  PARENTS  OR  FRIENDS 

Are  required  to  see  that  the  Children  attend  School  with  hands 
and  face  clean,  hair  combed,  clothes  and  shoes  brushed. 

That  they  punctually  attend  at  the  appointed  hour,  as  late 
attendance  occasions  a certain  loss  of  time,  and  consequently  of 
improvement. 

They  are  also  to  see  that  the  Children  bring  with  them  their 
cutters,  needles,  thimbles,  and  other  necessaries. 

When  detained  either  by  sickness,  or  any  other  cause,  they  are 
to  send  notice  thereof  to  the  School. 

***  School-hours  from  Ten  till  Three. 


Specimens  of  Needle-work  executed  in  the  Female  Model 
School,  corresponding  with  the  foregoing  details,  may  be  had  at 
the  Depository,  Kildare  Place,  price  5s.  6d. 


Spec i me w s 


Plate  1. 


IN?  lO. 


IN?  11. 


Engraved  by  J.KLrkwood 


